How to install an armoured door

How it is organised

Four phases, from the wall to the adjustments

The manual recommends having the installation done by qualified people and using only the material supplied with the door.

You'll need

• Hammer
• Spirit level
• Plumb line
• Cement for the anchors
• Flat-head screwdriver
• 6 mm Allen key
• Calliper
• €2 coin or suitable key
• Work gloves and safety shoes

These are the tools mentioned in the steps of the manual.

Phase 1 · steps 1–6

The subframe

The subframe is set into the wall with the anchors. The opening sizes for each door width are in the armoured door measuring guide.

1. 1

   Check the structure

   Before fitting the subframe, check that the structure is sound.

2. 2

   Break out and bend the anchors 8 anchors

   With a hammer, break out the 8 anchors on the two jambs of the subframe and bend them outwards, so they can be set in the wall with cement.

3. 3

   Cut the recesses in the wall

   Cut the recesses for the anchors in the wall, at the positions shown in the drawing in the manual.

4. 4

   Set the subframe level and plumb

   Place the subframe in the opening and check that it is level and plumb.

5. 5

   Cement the anchors in Caution

   Only when you are sure the subframe is perfectly positioned, and flush with the inner wall, cement the anchors in.

6. 6

   Remove the spacers

   Wait for the cement to set, then remove the subframe spacers.

Phase 3

Adjustments

According to the manual this is the phase that needs most care: a wrong adjustment affects how the door works. Do it in this order.

Adjustment 1Height

Needed when there are not 4–5 mm between door and floor.

1. 1

   Remove the hinge caps

   If the height needs adjusting, use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the caps on both door hinges.

2. 2

   Turn the adjusting grub screws 4–5 mm

   Use the adjusting grub screws inside the hinges: turning them clockwise or anticlockwise raises or lowers the door, until there are 4–5 mm between the door threshold and the floor.

The weight of the door must be shared equally between the upper and lower hinge: both grub screws must touch the lower part of the hinge.

Adjustment 2The gap between door and frame

Needed when, after the height adjustment, the door is too close to the frame and touches it, or too far away and one turn of the key is not enough to lock the door.

1. 1

   Measure the gap 11 mm

   Gently bring the door against the frame and measure the distance between them with a calliper: the nominal value is about 11 mm.

2. 2

   Lift off the door and remove the caps

   Lift the door off the frame, then remove the hole caps on the hinges fitted to the frame.

3. 3

   Reposition the hinge 6 mm Allen key

   With a 6 mm Allen key, slightly loosen the fixing screws under the caps and reposition the hinge, perfectly vertical. Then tighten the screws again.

4. 4

   Do the same on the other hinge

   Repeat on the other hinge: the two hinges must be perfectly aligned.

5. 5

   Rehang the door and check again

   Put the door back on its hinges and, if needed, repeat the adjustment from point 1.

Adjustment 3Depth

Needed when, as it closes, the door stays too far from the frame. It is done only with the latch adjuster, fitted on the frame at the lock holes.

1. 1

   Turn the latch adjuster €2 coin

   The adjuster has a slot: turn it with a suitable key, or with a €2 coin. Thanks to the eccentric inside, you move the door closer to or further from the frame.

2. 2

   Find the right point

   The door must open easily with the key, but without too much play when it is closed.

The latch is adjusted after the height. If you redo the height adjustment, the latch adjustment must be redone too.

Adjustment 4The draught-excluder threshold

1. 1

   Adjust the threshold screw

   Finally, adjust the draught-excluder threshold with its adjusting screw, on the hinge side of the door: this gives the draught-excluder blade the right travel.