How to adjust concealed hinges
The door rubs, doesn't close properly or isn't flush with the frame: you almost never need a technician, just two Allen keys and ten minutes. This is the procedure we give our installers, for FIP doors with three-part concealed hinges.
- 3 adjustment axes
- 2 mm key for height
- 4 mm key for depth
What is your door doing?
Each problem has its own screw. Find your case and go straight to the right step.
You'll need
- 2 mm Allen key
- 4 mm Allen key
- A shim or a wedge-shaped tool
Make the door safe
You can't adjust a door hanging in mid-air: the weight distorts every measurement and you risk straining the hinges. The first step is to take the load off the door.
- 1
Open the door to 90 degrees
Bring it to ninety degrees from the closed position, that is, perpendicular to the frame.
- 2
Shim it at least 6 mm off the floor 6 mm
Slide a shim under the door (a wedge-shaped tool is fine) until it is raised at least 6 mm off the floor. At that point the distance between the hinge arms is about 15 mm: the right position to work in.
One screw for each direction
Each hinge has three separate screws, and each one moves the door in one direction only.
The rule for all three: start from the top hinge and work down, and at the end all three hinges must be set to the same measurement.
- 3
Vertical adjustment 2 mm key
Raise or lower the door: clockwise raises it, anticlockwise lowers it. Start from the top hinge and work down: turn the vertical adjustment grub screw clockwise until you feel slight resistance. When you have done this on all three hinges, check them a second time and load them a little more, turning clockwise by about 60 degrees.
- 4
Horizontal adjustment Caution
Even out the gaps between door and frame, on the left and right. Turn the screw on the hinge body, door side, clockwise or anticlockwise. Do all three hinges: it is important to set them all to the same distance, otherwise the door twists.
- 5
Depth adjustment 4 mm key
Bring the face of the door in line with the face of the frame. Turning the screw on the hinge body, frame side, clockwise or anticlockwise moves the door forwards or backwards. Again on all three hinges, always to the same measurement. Then remove the shim, close the door and check that frame and door are aligned.
Two adjustments outside the procedure
The door straightener
On some models, and for non-standard heights, we fit a door straightener as standard. Use it only if the panel has warped, that is, if it has taken on a curve: turn the top screw clockwise or anticlockwise, a little at a time.
Go carefully: forcing the straightener can break the panel. If a light adjustment doesn't correct the curve, stop and message us.
The magnetic lock
If the door closes but there is still play, or the strike doesn't catch properly, the problem is the strike plate. Loosen its two screws, adjust the strike, then tighten the screws again: this is the step most often forgotten.
To take up the play between frame and panel, turn the strike plate: you can recover up to 2 mm, often enough.
If the hinge is another brand
Hinges from other brands
Many concealed hinges adjust on the same three axes, but screws and keys can differ from one model to another: in that case follow the manufacturer's sheet, or send us a photo of the hinge.
Message us on WhatsAppA hinge to replace
If a hinge is damaged and adjustment isn't enough, our catalogue has the OTLAV concealed hinge kit, adjustable on 3 axes, and the SIMONSWERK TECTUS TE 540 3D.
Are you installing the door?
Message us, it's our door
If after these adjustments the door still doesn't close as it should, send us the model and two photos on WhatsApp: we'll work out whether it's the hinges, the frame or the installation.
